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Need to Know
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The aging of our skin can be divided into two broad processes:
Chronological Aging and Photo-Aging.
1. Chronological aging
represents the structural, functional,
and metabolic changes in the skin that parallel the aging and degenerative changes
in other body organs. Symptoms of chronological aging include:
Dry and Thin Skin. While young skin renews itself every three to four
weeks, older skin takes four to six weeks to renew itself. The top layers lose
more moisture due to the aging process, and older skin has a dryer and more
dehydrated appearance.
Fine Wrinkles. Diminished production of collagen leads to fine wrinkles
initially observed around the eyes (commonly known as "crow's feet"), forehead,
and other sun-exposed areas. More pronounced effects include furrows at the
site of facial expression lines and sagging folds over the eyelids, neck, jaw,
and arms.
Abnormal Blood Vessels. Within the many small, delicate blood vessels
supplying nutrients to the skin, abnormalities develop. This is particularly
conspicuous over the nose and cheeks.
Age Spots These are pigmentations that surfaced as a result of a decrease
in the number and function of pigment cells in sun-exposed areas.
Benign and malignant skin tumors due to the deterioration of the skin's
immune system.
Successful restoration of youthful skin from
this perspective must address a variety of key issues including: collagen replacement,
strengthening the vascular walls of small blood vessels that supply the skin,
increasing vascular supply for oxygenation and detoxification purposes, increasing
immunity to reduce cancer risks, and reducing oxidative damage to the skin.
2. Photo-aging is a separate process and largely involves
damage to the collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. While genetics
play a significant role, the amount of wrinkles present is highly dependent
on the amount of sun exposure. The lines in a "lived-in face," especially for
those who spend a considerable amount of time outdoors, is a consequence of
oxidative damage due to overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) sunlight - both UVA
(responsible for tanning, wrinkling, and melanoma) and UVB (responsible for
sunburn and basal and squamous cell carcinoma). UV light may further damage
skin by increasing the production of proteolytic enzymes that break down collagen,
the connective tissue located beneath the dermis.
Successful retardation of photo-aging can
be achieved by wearing a sunscreen of SPF of 15 or more, and by avoiding direct
and indirect exposure to the sun for extended periods of time.
How Wrinkles Develop
The skin is made up of multiple layers of cells that are constantly going through
self shedding and regeneration once every 30 days or so in repeated cycles.
The layers can be broadly divided into two sections - the top epidermis and
the underlying dermis.
Histological studies of the skin show that a wrinkle is formed following
a series of major cellular changes:
During the sub-clinical phase of aging (from age 35-45), there is a gradual
and progressive slowing of cellular turnover and regeneration. This results
in the skin getting thinner. As a result, the normally undulating ridge-like
dermal-epidermal interface (DEI) becomes flatter. This flatness reduces the
surface area of nutritional exchange between the underlying dermis on the bottom
and the epidermis on top.
Reduced nutrition to the epidermis from aging is one factor that causes
cellular exhaustion and weakness. Without proper nutrition to the epidermis,
cellular metabolism of the epidermal cell is slowed. Furthermore, the transportation
of certain unwanted byproducts of cellular metabolism such as free radical is
reduced. The accumulation of such free radicals within the cell can lead to
undesirable mutational damages in the cell and ultimately cancer.
The adhesion between in the DEI is normally supplied by collagen IV (a multi-sheet
structure or basal layer) and collagen VII (anchored to the sheets structure).
The progressive loss of nutrients to this area slows the circulation of
the messengers that serve to promote the neo-synthesis process of such collagen. A vicious cycle is set up. Without an
optimal amount of collagen, the skin sags even more, propagating the dearth
of nutrients.
Paradoxically, matured aging skin contains more elastin, which the body
uses to fill in the empty space left by the deficiency of collagen. Such elastin,
unfortunately, is fragmented, calcified, and contains excessive lipids.
In addition to the loss of skin thickness due to lack of collagen support, the
aging skin is more loose and lacks elasticity. These two properties are hallmarks
of wrinkles.
This process of aging and appearance of wrinkles is accelerated during the clinical
phase of aging (age 45 and higher). By age 50, very few women can escape wrinkles.
The difference only lies in the degree of the blemish.
A wrinkle, very simply, is caused by the
reduction of collagen.
Efforts To
Stimulate Collagen Production
Successful stimulation of fibroblast to produce more collagen and GAGs endogenously
will in effect rejuvenate aging skin. Wrinkles will disappear and skin thickness
will increase. There is currently much research in this area of skin care.
Currently, two approaches have been clinically
proven to be successful:
1. Stimulate the central hormonal system
to increase Growth Hormone
secretion. Growth hormone is the master hormone that will in turn
promote fibroblasts to produce more collagen throughout the body.
2. Stimulate selected parts of the body,
such as the face or neck, to produce more collagen through exposing
the area topically to certain nutrients called
Secretagogues .
Let us take at look at these two approaches more closely.
1. Growth Hormone (hGH)
Human growth hormone (hGH) is a small protein molecule, which contains 191 amino
acids in a single polypeptide chain. It is the most common hormone secreted
by the anterior pituitary gland. For some reason unknown, the amount of growth
hormone secreted starts to slow after peaking in the late teens. The measurable
level of hGH in our body decreases 14 percent every ten years into old age after
peaking. This reduced level of secretion occurs over a period of time, with
concurrent signs of aging appearing. Daily secretion from the pituitary gland
diminishes with age to the extent that a 60-year-old man secretes only 25 percent
of the hGH secreted by a 20 year old adult.
A landmark study conducted by the late Dr. Rudman and published in the prestigious
New England Journal of Medicine showed that the effects of six months of human
growth hormone injection on lean body mass, skin thickness, and adipose-tissue
mass were equivalent to 10 to 20 years of reversed aging. Specifically, skin
thickness, as measured from 4 different sites, increased by 7.1% during this
period on subjects in the study.
Since that study, many people have undergone growth hormone injections as a
way to regain their youthfulness. Thicker
skin is just one of many benefits. Growth hormone injections were
approved by the FDA in the mid 1990s for treatment of adult growth hormone deficiency
syndrome. Growth hormone is a drug requiring close supervision by a qualified
physician. As with most drugs, side effects can and do occur with growth hormone
injections, including fluid retention and carpal tunnel syndrome.
Many have tried to apply this hormone topically.
Human growth hormone, like collagen, is too large a molecule to be absorbed
by direct application onto the skin. It is therefore not suitable for dermatological
use.
2. Oral
and Topical Secretagogues
A secretagogue (pronounced se-cre'-ta-gog) is a natural amino
acid chain (called a peptide) that acts to promote the production and or release
of the target chemical in question, whether it is a hormone or an enzyme. The
goal for a growth hormone secretagogue, for example, is to encourage the pituitary
gland to release growth hormone. While direct hGH injection causes the body
to act as if the pituitary has released growth hormone, a secretagogue actually
causes the release of it. The ultimate result is similar. However,
secretagogues are generally less potent and sold over the counter as nutritional
supplements rather than as a drug. As far as hGH is concerned, numerous
nutrients can acts as secretagogues, including amino acids such as glutamine,
lysine, and arginine. Specialized short chain peptides also act as secretagogues
to enhance growth hormone release from the pituitary gland, and next to injecting
hGH, this is perhaps the best alternative. Having the right delivery system
is critical, as peptide secretagogues are easy denatured when comes into contact
with gastric juice. Oral intake of such secretagogues will lead to enhanced
growth hormone levels, which in turn will lead to more collagen synthesis. With
secretagogues, injection of human growth hormone can therefore be avoided.
Another important secretagogue for youthful skin is called fibroblast secretagogue. This secretagogue contains Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF) that is designed to help the body manufacture fibroblast necessary for healthy and youthful skin. FGF is, therefore, a group of GFs that act on the fibroblast within the body. Fibroblast are basic building blocks of fibrous tissue, including the brain, nervous system, eye, blood vessels, heart, stomach, and most importantly, skin. There are at least 19 distinct members of the FGF family, which interact with at least 4 distinct types of cell-surface receptors. FGF is usually administered by subcutaneous injections simply because FGF is a small protein that can be easily denatured when exposed to heat or acid. Ingesting FGF, for example, will expose FGF to gastric acid, which quickly will denature it. This was resolved by binding FGF to non-toxic polymers to form a conjugated molecule. This is usually done through a series of chemical reactions. Substances commonly used for as polymers include polysaccharides or muco-adhesives. When the FGF is conjugated, the protein is more stable and protected from the digestive enzymes. Conjugation can furthermore program the FGF's release from its carrier to ensure that the desired action of the FGF on a specific site is maintained. For those who do not wish to pay the high cost of FGF injections, the oral effervescent form is the preferred route of delivery.
Secretagogues also come in the topical forms for the purpose of skin rejuvenation and collagen rebuilding. Topical Secretatogues (TS) are designed to stimulate collagen synthesis locally. A topical secretagogue (TS), when applied to the skin, acts locally to stimulate the growth of collagen and GAGs.
Most TS normally consist
of a fragment chain of active amino acids called a peptide chain. Not
all the amino acids in a long chain hormone such as hGH or Collagen is active.
Normally, only a small part of the overall chain is responsible
for the majority of its overall action. The key is to identify the distinct
active portion of the peptide chain. Because
of it small size, such active peptides can be topically applied and absorbed
into the skin with relative ease once isolated.
Successful isolation of such peptide fragments has been carried out both in
the research and clinical setting. They are produced by targeted cleaving of
"precursor proteins," such as those of collagen, fibronectin, and elastin. They
also have an important feedback role on their own neo-synthesis system and thus
contribute to tissue replacement. Such peptides are selective natural messengers
than can be applied to the skin and causes an immediate recognition by the cell
to produce collagen.
Several such short chain peptide secretagogues have been extensively researched.
One of the most effective is a short peptide chain consisting of 5 key amino
acids called a penta-peptide that is derived from a fragment of the C-terminal
portion of collagen I. It has been studied in detail by Katayama et al.
Laboratory Research studies
of this peptide have shown that the synthesis of collagen I, collagen III, and
fibronectin are enhanced when this peptide is added to cultured human fibroblast
tissue. Peptide chains from other locations within the collagen molecule do
not yield similar
effects.
This peptide also has a more marked impact on low-density cultures of fibroblasts,
similar to that of aging skin, than on higher density, confluent
culture like that of younger skin.
Laboratory in vitro studies
of this peptide showed that it is highly specific for interaction with fibroblasts
and causes the increased stimulation of collagen synthesis by up to 320% as
compared to the control group. It was also shown that at various concentrations,
this peptide produces highly significant induction of the neo-synthesis of soluble
collagen IV (important in the dermal-epidermal interface) by a factor of 2 to
4. At 2% concentration, GAG production was increased by 267% as well.
Ex
Vivo studies using skin biopsy samples showed that this peptide produced major
stimulation of the synthesis of collagen, with a maximum response of 117% at
the 4% concentration. This was higher than with Vitamin C or other topical secretagogues
such TGFb.
In a clinical double blind study, a panel of 35 female volunteers between the
ages of 34 and 72 (mean age: 58 years) was given a cream containing 3% of this
peptide for 6 months. They were instructed to apply the cream two times a day.
No other anti-wrinkle, restorative, restructuring, or regenerating cosmetic
products were used. The volunteers had no history of allergy or skin disorders.
After
6 months of treatment, imprints of the relief of the skin were obtained and
the skin irregularities were analyzed by Image analysis. It was shown that a
highly significant reduction in the deep and moderate wrinkles was obtained
with those treated with this peptide as compared to the control group. The reduction
in deep wrinkles increased with time. Specifically, surface area occupied by
deep wrinkles was reduced by a mean of 68% over 6 months. Deep wrinkles
are defined with a maximum depth of more than 200 mm. The surface are occupied
by moderate wrinkles (defined as those of 150 to 200 mm in depth) was reduced
by a mean of 51% over the same period.
Subjects also showed significant improvements in the density of the furrows.
Furrows are the deepest wrinkles. Vectorization by image analysis was used to
assign a length to these furrows and calculate the sum per unit area, with 28%
reduction after 2 months, 31% reduction after 4 months, and 47% reduction after
6 months.
Roughness of the skin is also measured by image analysis. This provides a global
approach to the concept of the smoothness of the surface by assigning to it
a mean amplitude, which is the resultant of all the furrows and peaks. The results
of the study showed a 10% reduction after 2 months and 16% after 6 months.
Self evaluation by the volunteers were conducted after 2, 4, and 6 months with
the following results at the end of 6 months:
The
application of the proper topical peptide secretagogue has therefore shown to
be effective in enhancing collagen and GAG production. Increased collagen and
GAG production leads to thicker skin and diminishing wrinkles and fine lines.
A good topical secretagogue should be considered a cornerstone of an overall
anti-aging skin management system.
For the best skin rejuvenation effect,
consider taking secretagogue in two forms - an oral effervescent secretagogue
form (such as MD Gee-H ) to stimulate growth hormone secretion and fibroblast
formation systemically, and a topical secretagogue (such as Dermatlift) containing
special penta-peptide to stimulate collagen synthesis locally. Efforts To
Stimulate Collagen Production
Successful stimulation of fibroblast to produce more collagen and GAGs endogenously
will in effect rejuvenate aging skin. Wrinkles will disappear and skin thickness
will increase. There is currently much research in this area of skin care.
Currently, two approaches have been clinically
proven to be successful:
1. Stimulate the central hormonal system
to increase Growth Hormone
secretion. Growth hormone is the master hormone that will in turn
promote fibroblasts to produce more collagen throughout the body.
2. Stimulate selected parts of the body,
such as the face or neck, to produce more collagen through exposing
the area topically to certain nutrients called
Secretagogues .
Let us take at look at these two approaches more closely.
1. Growth Hormone (hGH)
Human growth hormone (hGH) is a small protein molecule, which contains 191 amino
acids in a single polypeptide chain. It is the most common hormone secreted
by the anterior pituitary gland. For some reason unknown, the amount of growth
hormone secreted starts to slow after peaking in the late teens. The measurable
level of hGH in our body decreases 14 percent every ten years into old age after
peaking. This reduced level of secretion occurs over a period of time, with
concurrent signs of aging appearing. Daily secretion from the pituitary gland
diminishes with age to the extent that a 60-year-old man secretes only 25 percent
of the hGH secreted by a 20 year old adult.
A landmark study conducted by the late Dr. Rudman and published in the prestigious
New England Journal of Medicine showed that the effects of six months of human
growth hormone injection on lean body mass, skin thickness, and adipose-tissue
mass were equivalent to 10 to 20 years of reversed aging. Specifically, skin
thickness, as measured from 4 different sites, increased by 7.1% during this
period on subjects in the study.
Since that study, many people have undergone growth hormone injections as a
way to regain their youthfulness. Thicker skin
is just one of many benefits. Growth hormone injections were approved
by the FDA in the mid 1990s for treatment of adult growth hormone deficiency
syndrome. Growth hormone is a drug requiring close supervision by a qualified
physician. As with most drugs, side effects can and do occur with growth hormone
injections, including fluid retention and carpal tunnel syndrome.
Many have tried to apply this hormone topically.
Human growth hormone, like collagen, is too large a molecule to be absorbed
by direct application onto the skin. It is therefore not suitable for dermatological
use.
2. Oral and Topical Secretagogues
A secretagogue (pronounced se-cre'-ta-gog) is a natural amino acid chain
(called a peptide) that acts to promote the production and or release of the
target chemical in question, whether it be a hormone or an enzyme. The goal
for a growth hormone secretagogue, for example, is to encourage the pituitary
gland to release growth hormone. While hGH causes the body to act as if the
pituitary has released growth hormone, a secretagogue actually causes the release
of it. The ultimate result is similar. However,
secretagogues are generally less potent and sold over the counter as nutritional
supplements rather than as a drug. As far as hGH is concerned,
numerous nutrients can acts as secretagogues, including amino acids such as
glutamine, lysine, and arginine. Specialized short chain peptides also act as
secretagogues to enhance growth hormone release from the pituitary gland.
Oral intake of such secretagogues will lead to enhanced growth hormone levels,
which in turn will lead to more collagen synthesis. With secretagogues, injection
of human growth hormone can therefore be avoided.
Secretagogues typically come in the oral
or topical forms, depending on the end result desired. Oral secretagogues are
designed to stimulate hGH release centrally, while Topical Secretatogues (TS)
are designed to stimulate collagen synthesis locally.
A topical secretagogue (TS), when applied
to the skin, acts locally to stimulate the growth of collagen and GAGs. Such
topical secretagogues (TS) include fibroblast growth factors (FGFs), transforming
growth factors (TGFs), and insulin growth factors (IGF).
Most TS normally consist a fragment chain of active amino acids called a peptide
chain. Not all the amino acids in a long chain hormone such as hGH or Collagen
is active. Normally, only part of the overall chain is responsible for the majority
of its overall action. The key is to identify the active portion of the
peptide chain. Because of it small size, such
peptides can be topically applied and absorbed into the skin with relative ease.
Successful isolation of such peptide fragments has been carried out both in
the research and clinical setting. They are produced by targeted cleaving of
"precursor proteins," such as those of collagen, fibronectin, and elastin. They
also have an important feedback role on their own neo-synthesis system and thus
contribute to tissue replacement. Such peptides are selective natural messengers
than can be applied to the skin and causes an immediate recognition by the cell
to produce collagen.
Several such short chain peptide secretagogues have been extensively researched.
One of the most effective is a short peptide chain consisting of 5 key amino
acids: Lysyl, Threonyl, Threonly, Lysyl, and Serine. This penta-peptide is derived
from a fragment of the C-terminal portion of collagen I. It has been studied
in detail by Katayama et al.
Laboratory Research studies of this peptide have shown that the synthesis of
collagen I, collagen III, and fibronectin are enhanced when this peptide is
added to cultured human fibroblast tissue. Peptide chains from other locations
within the collagen molecule do not yield similar effects. This peptide also
has a more marked impact on low-density cultures of fibroblasts, similar to
that of aging skin, than on higher density, confluent culture like that of younger
skin.
Laboratory in vitro studies of this peptide showed that it is highly specific
for interaction with fibroblasts and causes the increased stimulation of collagen
synthesis by up to 320% as compared to the control group. It was also shown
that at various concentrations, this peptide produces highly significant induction
of the neo-synthesis of soluble collagen IV (important in the dermal-epidermal
interface) by a factor of 2 to 4. At 2% concentration, GAG production was increased
by 267% as well.
Ex Vivo studies using skin biopsy samples showed that this peptide produced
major stimulation of the synthesis of collagen, with a maximum response of 117%
at the 4% concentration. This was higher than with vitamin C or other topical
secretagogues such TGFb.
In a clinical double blind study, a panel of 35 female volunteers between the
ages of 34 and 72 (mean age: 58 years) was given a cream containing 3% of this
peptide for 6 months. They were instructed to apply the cream two times a day.
No other anti-wrinkle, restorative, restructuring, or regenerating cosmetic
products were used. The volunteers had no history of allergy or skin disorders.
After 6 months of treatment, imprints of the relief of the skin were obtained
and the skin irregularities were analyzed by Image analysis. It was shown that
a highly significant reduction in the deep and moderate wrinkles was obtained
with those treated with this peptide as compared to the control group. The reduction
in deep wrinkles increased with time. Specifically, surface area occupied by
deep wrinkles was reduced by a mean of 68% over 6 months. Deep wrinkles
are defined with a maximum depth of more than 200 mm. The surface are occupied
by moderate wrinkles (defined as those of 150 to 200 mm in depth) was reduced
by a mean of 51% over the same period.
Subjects also showed significant improvements in the density of the furrows.
Furrows are the deepest wrinkles. Vectorization by image analysis was used to
assign a length to these furrows and calculate the sum per unit area, with 28%
reduction after 2 months, 31% reduction after 4 months, and 47% reduction after
6 months.
Roughness of the skin is also measured by image analysis. This provides a global
approach to the concept of the smoothness of the surface by assigning to it
a mean amplitude, which is the resultant of all the furrows and peaks. The results
of the study showed a 10% reduction after 2 months and 16% after 6 months.
Self evaluation by the volunteers were conducted after 2, 4, and 6 months with
the following results at the end of 6 months:
The
application of the proper topical peptide secretagogue has therefore shown to
be effective in enhancing collagen and GAG production. Increased collagen and
GAG production leads to thicker skin and diminishing wrinkles and fine lines.
A good topical secretagogue should be considered a cornerstone of an overall anti-aging
skin management system.
Detoxification
to Enhance Skin Cell Health
The skin is one of the key ways
our body eliminates waste (the lungs and kidneys are the other ways) after
being processed by the liver. Excessive toxins will accumulate in our body,
some of which are deposited on the skin in the form of pigments, fats, and
other pathologies.
In addition to the topical application and oral intake of optimum amount
of antioxidants mentioned above, it is important to rid the body of toxins
built up through the years. You will notice that people whose body is detoxified
generally have healthier and younger looking skin. This is no accident.
Detoxification
is therefore a key element in restoring youthful skin. Some natural herbs
and nutritional factors specific for detoxification include:
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